![]() Now you’re limited because of too much power. You’re likely only going to get the lens to shoot at f5.6 because of all the flash power. An 800w strobe turned to its lowest setting is still way too much power to shoot your lens at f1.8. To shoot your fastest lens like your 50mm f1.8 wide open for those blurry background, cute newborn shots you’ll need flash but not too much. Many pros have 800w or 1200w strobes but if you ask them, you’ll find that they rarely use them at more than half power. If you shoot newborn and the occasional portrait, a 300w is plenty of power. You need to seriously identify what and where you typically shoot. A 1200w strobe might be great for them but not be at all practical for you. It only matters if it helps or hinders the way you shoot. My camera is full frame, yours is only a crop sensor. As photographers we like to brag about equipment. Not really, they’re just following what they’ve head somewhere or they happened to buy themselves. My friend told me to get at least a 1200 watt strobe? This is why you can never just set you strobe to match your camera. Starting to get the picture? Every modifier, light position, tilt, turn, or ambient light makes all the difference. That’s a full 2 stops less with the strobe at exactly the same power. The other strobe you put on a softbox and it measures f11. You put a reflector on one and take a shot. You have two identical 400w strobes in the studio in the exact same position, both powered to 6.0 or full power. The reason for this is that every time you add a reflector, softbox, or umbrella to your strobe, that f-stop is changed. 1.0 to 6.0 representing 6 stops or 1/1 (full power) to 1/32 power. Strobes are adjusted in power increments. New photographers often think that you can just turn your camera to a desired aperture (f-stop) and a matching aperture setting on the strobe. Just so you don’t get too confused when you’re shopping around. That means an Alien Bee’s B800 strobe is actually only 320 watt seconds. Alien Bee’s are one strobe company that uses a different way of rating output called true watt seconds instead of nominal watt seconds like everyone else. ![]() An ECL 400 strobe model means 400 watt seconds, a 600 in the brand name means 600 watt seconds. Strobepro, like 99% of the other strobes on the market rate our strobes this way. The 10W bulb in the nightlight, the 60W bulb in the living room, the 100W bulb in the lamp, all with different maximum outputs. The maximum watts that can be output over a 1 second duration. In simple terms watt seconds are the unit of measure used for power output in strobes. To answer the question we need to understand a little more about what the heck watt seconds are. If you’re new to studio lighting, your first question is likely how much power (watt seconds) do I need? Well it’s a good question because the answer will have the greatest impact on price and what you can photograph with your strobes. Although that can be interesting and useful, what most people care about when buying strobes is Power, Features, and Price. How to measure light output, guide numbers, falloff etc. Photographers love to get overly technical sometimes when talking about strobes. Godox LITEMONS LA200D/LA200BI COB LED Lights (NEW) Godox KNOWLED M300D/M600D COB LED Lights (NEW) Godox SL100Bi/SL150Bi/S元00iii COB LED Lights (NEW) Godox T元0 TL60 TL120 RGB LED Tube Lights (NEW) Godox LD75/LD150 RGB Light Panels (NEW).Godox LITEMONS LA200D/LA200BI COB LED Lights (NEW).Godox KNOWLED M300D/M600D COB LED Lights (NEW).Godox SL100Bi/SL150Bi/S元00iii COB LED Lights (NEW).Godox T元0 TL60 TL120 RGB LED Tube Lights (NEW).Godox DPIIIV Manual 400/600 Strobe (NEW). ![]()
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